Twelve years after the arrival of the Ace Hotel in New York City, the trendy boutique hotel chain is expanding to Brooklyn, and although there is no celebrity chef and renowned restaurateur behind the food and drinks this time around, an ambitious bakery and all-day restaurant open on Friday September 10th.
As You Are, located in Boerum Hill at 252 Schermerhorn Street, is run by Ryan Jordan, an Ace Hotel vet who worked at New York’s Nomad property restaurants John Dory and the Breslin, where he was most recently the executive chef. He is joined by Chef Danny Alvarez, a former Union Square Hospitality Group who was named Eater Young Gun in 2018 while leading Daily Provisions’ baking program. The duo have teamed up with a large global menu drawn from a multitude of cuisines to offer morning pastries and dinner service for the time being.
From oversized English muffins for the short rib cheeseburger to pasta made with an extruder bought in Italy, “anything I can make at home, I will,” says Jordan. Clever interpretations of classic dishes are a dominant theme. An aperitif of chicken mousse and duck liver coated on a laurel-flavored madeleine and topped with an onion compote is a reference to chicken liver and onions. Meanwhile, Alvarez’s pastry crate will include a black and white donut and a “BEC” focaccia (bacon, egg and chorizo).
As You Are bills itself as “a celebration of Brooklyn culture and cuisine” – strong words in a neighborhood teeming with neighborhood restaurants and longtime classics. For Jordan, he says it’s an opportunity to explore the diverse mix of immigrant foods that can be found in the borough – a welcome task for the Jersey native chef, who lives in Bushwick. for 14 years. In one of his pasta dishes, he covers spiral-shaped pasta with an octopus and mezcal stew, borrowing elements from Mexican, Spanish and Italian cuisines. It serves lamb chops – which can be ordered half or whole rack – with a Sichuan-style chili crisp, garlic yogurt, cucumber, and flatbread. “I want to honor and respect the people who built these neighborhoods and the kitchens they brought in while finding fun ways to express it on the plate,” he says. “I don’t want to identify a specific neighborhood or nationality, it’s more of an eclectic mix of these things.”
Alvarez’s approach to the concept has been to “take what I think are Brooklyn classics and then do a little twist.” For his rum cake, Alvarez turned to his best friend, a longtime Brooklynite, whose great-great-grandmother shared his dessert recipe. He also makes a pastel de nata (Portuguese egg custard pies) entirely from scratch, starting with a puff pastry which is then hand rolled, molded, filled with custard and baked in the oven.
The bakery counter is just to the right of the restaurant entrance and will open daily at 8am with coffee from Sey and Masha Tea. At night, this is where the Alvarez team will prepare their desserts so guests in the dining room with stained plywood walls can watch them put the finishing touches to slices of chocolate cake covered in chocolate mousse. pudding and scoops of toasted oat ice cream with pears in brown butter and spicy toffee sauce.
Other elements of the 188-seat space designed by Roman and Williams include mossy green banquettes, custom wood tables, and milk glass pendant lights. The most eye-catching feature is a large, colorful mosaic by artist Isaiah Zagar with fun culinary details, like a clay inset of four roast rabbits.
The hotel’s two bars – one in the restaurant and another in the open lobby – are overseen by beverage manager Ben Durbin, who will serve cocktails, natural wines, and New York-made craft beers. A hand-carved wooden wall sculpture by Guild artist RW Verdan Jakšić sets the tone at the lobby bar, where Jordan’s team will serve up small bites in the weeks to come, like sliders with ‘martini. mayo ”infused with juniper berries and olive brine.
As You Are is open daily from 8am to 11am for pastries and coffee; 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. for dinner from Sunday to Wednesday; and until 11 p.m. from Thursday to Saturday. Breakfast, lunch, weekend brunch and bar snacks will be available soon.